Best Cedar Products – Our Top Picks

15 Jul 2024

Mark has been in the business for over 30 years and has seen a lot of Cedar products come and go. The products recommended here are based on his personal experience maintaining thousands of Cedar homes across the country.

These are the products we actively use today, or have used in the past, and all have been tried and tested across a range of locations and conditions.

If the product you are considering isn’t mentioned below, that doesn’t mean it’s unsuitable, only that we don’t have enough experience with the product to recommend it either way.

Always follow the manufacturers guidelines and choose the best Cedar product for your specific circumstances.

Lastly, if your Cedar has already been treated with a specific product and is still in good condition, it’s a good rule of thumb to use the same product for the best colour matching and application. If the product is starting to fail, look at the best solution for the timber regardless of what was used previously.

Best Cedar Cleaning Products

Preparing Cedar before applying an oil or stain is the key to achieving a smooth and consistent finish.

Over time, organic matter such as dust, moss and lichen will build up on the Cedar. As oils and stains are semi-transparent/translucent, any product or organic matter left on the surface will show up and look unsightly.

Which cleaning product you use depends on the current state of your Cedar.

Hit The Deck

Cedar that has no oil or stain on the surface will only require a gentle wash using an oxy cleaner or percarbonate solution to kill off any built-up organic matter. Hit The Deck by Wet & Forget works very well and doesn’t contain any bleaches or chlorine.

Dryden LiquidTimberClean

If your Cedar has been affected by the sun and started to age, you may need to brighten it back up. Dryden LiquidTimberClean is an oxalic acid-based cleaner that is effective at lightening stains and brightening timber. Be careful using this product around windows and joinery as it can tarnish the surface if not rinsed properly.

Resene Timber and Deck Wash

For general cleaning, Resene Timber and Deck Wash is very effective for cleaning hardwood and softwood timber surfaces. This wash only has a small amount of bleach and is effective at killing off anything organic. An excellent product, we use it all the time.

And avoid…

We do not recommend any products that contain a heavy solution of sodium hypochlorite, commonly known as bleach. This often comes with the benefits of “spray and walk away” or “done in 30 seconds”. It will certainly clean the Cedar and kill off anything that’s on the surface, but it can damage the cellular structure of the timber.

Quick Note About Stains

Stains are like white paint. You can buy white paint from 20 different paint manufacturers and each one will tell you why theirs is the best.

Which stain you use is much less important than when and where you use it.

Stains perform best out of the harsh UV, on areas sheltered by trees and other buildings, south-facing, or under soffits.

If used on areas exposed to the sun, they will eventually break down. If a stain cracks, water will get in behind and delaminate the stain, lifting it from the surface.

When stains fail, it takes a lot of work to make the stained surface look good, even more than with oil. Just remember, when choosing your coating, the sun will ALWAYS win. Make sure the stain is out of the sun, and you should be fine.

Best Cedar Stains

Resene Woodsman Waterborne Oil Stain

Resene Woodsman Waterborne Oil Stain is our stain of choice. This stain is a penetrating water-borne wood oil stain that is designed to erode, rather than form a film on the surface, which is what you want. As the stain is very thin, it gives a chance for the oil to get into the timber. This stain has been around for 15+ years and we have a lot of confidence in the product.

Cabbots stain

Cabbots stain, by Dulux, is another product we regularly use. Cabbots is an excellent stain, with the slight reservation that this is a film-forming product, and it can get brittle if over applied.

Coating Remover Sea to Sky by Resene

If you need to remove a previous stain before application, use a coating remover that uses organic or citrus based compounds. Avoid methylene chloride products, which are very aggressive.

Coating Remover Sea to Sky by Resene is an organic stripping compound that contains no harsh chemicals, and is very effective at removing paints, coatings and residues.

Be careful, it’s a messy job…

Mask or cover the areas adjacent to the areas you are working on and make sure you get all the product out of the timber. Use a water blaster at the correct pressure to remove any latent product sitting on the timber’s surface.

Quick Note About Oils

Unlike stains, not all oils are made equally. As oil is the base ingredient in these products, the quality of the oil can affect the speed of penetration and dry to touch time, and the final look and feel.

Choose an oil from a reputable manufacturer that has been formulated for the specific conditions in New Zealand.

Other factors to consider include the biocide package (to keep away nasties), available colour range and the degree of transparency. depending on how much you want the Cedar to come through.

All that said, it’s always better to apply oil to your Cedar than not. You are looking to protect the surface of the timber from the harsh sun, and anything is better than nothing.

Best Cedar Oils

There are 3 different products we can recommend. Before getting to our top pick, we need to cover a little history to better understand the evolution of Cedar oil products.

CD50

CD50 (now known as CUTEK Extreme CD50) is the original Cedar oil and has been around for 40 or 50 years. The product has since been bought by an Australian company and reformulated for the Australian market. We don’t use this product much as the alternatives listed below are better suited for New Zealand conditions. Regardless, this is a quality penetrating oil with a long and storied history.

Dryden WoodOil

Dryden WoodOil is owned by Dulux and specially designed for our conditions. 20 years ago, CD50 was sold off and the manufacturers reformulated Dryden WoodOil from the old CD50 chemical makeup. Dryden WoodOil is water-repellent, non-filming, and a true migrating oil that gets deep into the timber. We regularly use this product and can recommend it without hesitation.

Wood-X

Wood-X is our top pick and the oil we recommend for most of our customers. Wood-X is made by Resene and specifically formulated for New Zealand conditions. Wood-X is a non-film forming, viscous mineral oil that is designed to penetrate exterior hardwood timbers and improve dimensional stability.

Wood-X also has an excellent biocide package, high quality and proven tints (colour tones), and uses high grade oil content that speeds its penetration and ‘dry to touch’ time.

Full disclosure: TimberTech helped to develop Wood-X and Mark has a small shareholding in the business. We are proud of our association with Wood-X and wouldn’t recommend it if it wasn’t the absolute best product for our customers.

Need Help or Advice?

If you have any questions about the products we covered, please get in touch with our team. We are more than happy to give advice and point you in the right direction.

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17 Feb 2026

The Tipping Point: How Long Can You Delay Cedar Maintenance?

We regularly see the results of both proactive care and long-term neglect. While Cedar is incredibly resilient, there is a definitive tipping point where a simple maintenance coat turns into an expensive restoration - or worse, a total reclad.

We understand the temptation to “wait just one more year” before investing in Cedar maintenance. Whether it’s budget-related or just a busy schedule, many homeowners try to push the limits of their cladding.

Here is a breakdown of the Cedar timeline and how to know if you’ve gone too far.

The Three-Summer Rule

We recommend having the sun-exposed faces of your Cedar recoated every 2-3 summers.

The “danger zone” usually begins after the third summer. However, not all sides of your house age at the same rate.

North-Facing (the sunny side):

After three summers of UV exposure, maintenance is officially overdue. You’ll notice the oil’s tint beginning to discolour and areas of bare timber becoming exposed.

Without oil, the Cedar loses its ability to repel water. It absorbs moisture during rain and then gets baked dry by the sun. This rapid swelling and shrinking is what starts the deterioration process.

South-Facing (the sheltered side):

You can often get away with three summers or longer here, but you aren’t out of the woods. While UV isn’t the enemy, dampness is.

High-quality Cedar oils contain fungicides that prevent organic growth. As the oil dries out, these fungicides disappear and you’ll see mould and lichen developing.

The Downward Spiral: 4 to 6 Years

If you push past the four-year mark without treatment, the life begins to leave the boards.

Around the 4-year mark, you will likely see mould developing on sheltered, damp faces. On the sunny side, the boards will begin to warp or crack as they lose their internal moisture.

At 5–6 years, maintenance now becomes urgent. At this stage, the weaker parts of the Cedar boards (the thinner overlap points) will start to bend and cup. Gaps will appear between boards, which can lead to serious waterproofing issues for your home’s structure.

Can Your Cedar Be Saved?

The good news is that in most cases, Cedar can be saved – but it comes at a cost.

If you’ve waited 5 or 6 years, a standard house wash and recoat often won’t cut it. Restoration at this stage requires a deep chemical clean to strip back dead fibres and mould, followed by multiple applications of oil to quench the thirsty timber.

The hard truth is that while re-oiling helps return flexibility to the wood and releases surface tension, it cannot un-warp a board completely.

Once a board has significantly cupped, the damage is largely irreparable. You can halt the process and protect the wood from further degradation, but you cannot return the board to its original, flat state.

Factors That Speed Up the Clock

The “three-summer rule” is a guide, but your specific environment might move the needle:

Foliage: Trees or bushes touching the Cedar trap moisture and cause mould.
Dirt & Splashback: Proximity to garden beds or dirt can lead to ground-level rot.
Micro-climates: Coastal salt spray or high-humidity bush settings can accelerate the breakdown

Regularly washing your house will often remove these contaminants and should be part of your regular maintenance plan.

Regardless, the longer you wait, the more life you are taking out of the boards. Delaying maintenance might save a bit of money this year, but it effectively shortens the total lifespan of your home’s cladding.

On a sunny face, you aren’t just skipping a service, you’re allowing permanent damage to the surface of the Cedar that can’t be undone later.

Final thoughts…

If in doubt, you always ask us to pop around for a free Cedar assessment. Very often it’s only the sun exposed faces that need maintaining, and it doesn’t cost as much as people might think.

15 Nov 2025

Can Cedar Be Transitioned from Stain to Oil?

Yes, transitioning Cedar from stain to oil is possible, but it's not a process to be undertaken lightly. There can also be 3-9 month transition period where the Cedar will have a shiny-flat-shiny-flat appearance. However, the end result is Cedar that looks stunning and is protected against the UV rays.

Yes, transitioning Cedar from stain to oil is possible, but it’s not a process to be undertaken lightly. Removing stain requires a chemical stripper to remove the broken-down stain, and perhaps even some sanding to remove any stubborn remnants.

There can also be a 3-9 month transition period where the Cedar will have a shiny-flat-shiny-flat (or “patchy”) appearance. However, the end result is Cedar that looks stunning and is protected against the UV rays.

How Stained Cedar Ends Up Looking Unsightly

Treating Cedar with stain isn’t usually an informed choice by the homeowner.

Often, the previous owner has done a quick fix and used stain to make the Cedar look pretty before selling, or the current homeowner has stained over a poorly prepared stain without stripping back the boards.

Stains are translucent, so even though they have some opacity, you can still see through them and unless the preparation is done well, stains don’t hide imperfections.

Eventually the stain will delaminate in the harsh UV, giving a camouflaged look with light and dark shades that are often patchy and uneven.

Why Transition From Stain to Oil?

No matter how much stain you put on the surface of the timber, 5-10 years of sun exposure on a northern face will deplete the natural oils of the Cedar and cause the boards to dry out, cup, then ultimately split.

This doesn’t just look bad, it threatens the integrity of your home to withstand the elements and if the damage continues, you may need to replace the cladding altogether.

Unlike stain, oil soaks into the pores of the timber leaving only a thin film on the surface, so it does not break down or flake off. The oil then replaces the natural oils depleted by the sun and protects the timber against surface tension and cracks.

Oil is also easier to maintain and as you only need to recoat exposed faces every 2-3 summers, the maintenance will be more cost-effective over the long term.

The Transition Process from Stain to Oil

First, we do a site visit to look at the current state of the boards.

In the best-case scenario, the weatherboards will have had an even exposure to the sun. We then use a stripper to lift the broken-down stain, followed by a deep clean to remove anything which is loose.

The heavy wash will give us a good look at the condition of the boards below. If there is any stain remaining on the surface, we might need to sand or strip the boards back to their virgin state before applying the oil.

If the boards have received partial shade cover, such as nearby trees or soffits that have only protected the upper areas, they need to be stripped. You can’t just oil over the top and hope that it’s going to match the weatherboards below.

This adds a lot of cost to the process and if the homeowner isn’t willing to spend that much money, we may recommend applying another coat of stain to provide at least some protection against UV and keep the house looking tidy.

Be Prepared for the Patchy Look

One of the biggest downsides of moving from stain to oil is a 3-9 month transition period where your Cedar will have a shiny-flat-shiny-flat (or “patchy”) look.

This happens when oil is applied to any surface that still has stain remnants. The oil cannot soak through the non-porous stain, so it sits around the surface area where the oil has soaked in, giving the shiny-flat-shiny-flat look.

In the sunlight, the shiny-flat-shiny-flat look is not pretty. However, this effect is only temporary and eventually the oil will soak in and delaminate any remaining stain.

After 3-9 months, we come back and give the boards another deep clean, sand back any remaining stain and apply another coat of oil. 9-12 months later we repeat the same process.

After 12-24 months the transition will be complete and the Cedar will move into a regular maintenance schedule, with sun exposed areas being treated every 2-3 summers.

What Costs Are Involved?

Cost is the final hurdle for many Cedar homeowners. Stripping off stain is an expensive process and if your current home is not your forever home, the costs might be prohibitive.

However, if you are planning to stay in your current home for the foreseeable future, the costs become an investment that will pay for itself. Over time, oil is much easier to apply than stain, provides superior protection against the elements and increases the lifespan of your Cedar.

In broad terms, it comes down to this: do you want to spend the extra 10k to remove the stain and give yourself an easy to maintain finish, or deduct the 10k from the cost of replacing the cladding in the not-to-distant future?

By investing in the health of your Cedar now, you will save money on long-term maintenance, and your cladding will look amazing.

Get An Expert Opinion!

As you can see, there are a lot of variables when considering the transition from stain to oil.

For a Free Cedar Assessment, get in touch by calling 0800 298 298.

There is no obligation and our goal is always to look after the best interests of our customers over the lifecycle of their homes.

11 Sep 2025

5 Signs Your Cedar Needs Attention

Cedar needs to be recoated every 2-3 summers to protect the timber from New Zealand's harsh UV rays. Knowing what signs to look for will help you stay on top of maintenance before small issues turn into larger, more expensive problems.

Cedar needs to be recoated every 2-3 summers to protect the timber from New Zealand’s harsh UV rays.

By applying an oil or a stain, the boards are protected by a coating that takes the brunt of the UV rays, but over time, it will break down and needs to be reapplied.

Knowing what signs to look for will help you stay on top of maintenance before small issues turn into larger, more expensive problems.

1. Discolouration

Discoloration is often the first sign that your cedar needs attention. It happens when the UV rays begin to break down the existing coating, allowing the natural colour of the timber to come through.

A generously applied oil will fill the pores of the Cedar and leave a protective tint on the surface. This dual action helps the wood resist moisture and absorbs the worst of the sun’s rays.

With oil, you can tell if the Cedar is dry by spraying water onto the surface. If the water beads off, the boards still have a reservoir of oil. If the water soaks in, you probably need to recoat.

Stains work similarly, creating a barrier that shields the timber. Over time, the stain will oxidise and erode by design – this means it’s doing its job by absorbing the UV damage – resulting in a patchy, uneven appearance with lighter and darker areas.

2. Fading or silvering

Silvering is caused by exposure to UV rays, which fray and loosen the top cells of the Cedar and cause the surface to become bleached.

While some people prefer this aged appearance, it can be a problem in warm, damp climates. The roughened surface of the wood can trap moisture, dirt, and bacteria, causing the Cedar to turn black.

If you like the silvered look, you can get protective oils with a silver tint that will give you the aesthetic you want while still protecting your Cedar from the sun.

3. Patchy or uneven colour

Patchy or uneven colour on your Cedar can be a sign of a few things. The previous coating might have been applied unevenly, or it could be breaking down faster in some areas than others for a variety of reasons.

A well-maintained Cedar home should have a consistent colour across all its walls. If your home hasn’t been maintained in quite some time, the faces of the house that gets more direct sun exposure will fade faster than the shaded faces.

Reapplying an oil or stain not only enhances the colour but also helps replenish the wood’s natural oils and fortify its anti-fungal properties, restoring its vibrant, like-new appearance.

4. Mould and lichen forming

Mould and lichen often grow on the damper areas of your house away from the sun. Mould can appear on the surface coating or might be ingrained in the timber if it’s been left for a while.

The first signs of mould are small black spores that look like spots or splatters, and as it gets more severe it will get more obvious, turning black, green or red.

Signs of mould and lichen are not always a big concern. Get a professional to look at it, and if you catch it early enough, you might just need a clean without having to recoat the timber.

5. Cracks, or worse

Look for small cracks appearing, either in the coating or the boards themselves. Those little cracks are allowing moisture to get into the boards and create a toehold for mould, mildew and lichen to get established.

If nails are popping out, or you can see warping, this is a sign that the boards are moving a lot. This usually happens on the north face, or any area that is exposed to the sun and doesn’t have any protection against the wet-dry-wet effect.

If your boards are starting to cup, it doesn’t mean the boards are beyond repair. Often the structural integrity of the boards is still good, we just need to clean them up and replace the oil to reduce the surface tension and repel water.

Final thoughts…

Knowing the signs that your Cedar needs attention helps you make an informed decision about when to invest in its health.

If you’re unsure, it’s always best to have a professional take a look.

We offer a free, onsite Cedar Assessment across Auckland and Northland. One of our Cedar experts will provide a genuine assessment of your timber and offer advice to keep your Cedar protected and looking beautiful for years to come.

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Best Cedar Products – Our Top Picks